SHOES. We have already spoke of ‘em under the Article HOSING of the Hebrews; and the Title SANDALS may also be consulted. Pythagoras would have his Disciples wear Shoes of the Barks of Trees; probably that they might not wear such as were made of the Skins of Animals; for they refrain’d from the Use of every thing that had Life. The Antients had Shoes which wholly cover’d their Feet, like ours; and others that only defended the Soals of their Feet, with Leather Bands above, that left a Part of the Foot uncover’d. The first Sort was call’d Calceus, Mulleus, Pero, Phæcasium; the latter Caliga, Solea, Crepida, Baxea, Sandaleum. Antiently among the Romans their Shoes were generally of crude or untann’d Leather. None but those that had discharged the Office of Edile, were to wear the Mulleus, which was of Leather dress’d with Allum, and of a red Colour. ‘Tis said that the Roman Senators also wore Shoes of dress’d Leather, but of a black Colour. The Roman Women wore Ælian. var. hist. l. 7. c. 11. Juven. Sat. 7.their Shoes pretty much as the Men. Juvenal speaks of the Moon, or Lunula, which was wore upon black Shoes.
Adpositam nigræ Lunam subtexit alutæ.
Isaiah speaks also of the Moons that the Jewish Women wore upon their Shoes. In die illa auferet dominus ornamentum calceamentorum & lunulas. The Emperor Vopisc. in Aureliano, ad finem.Aurelian forbid the wearing of red, yellow, white, or green Shoes, and would allow only Women to use them. And Heliogabalus publish’d a Proclamation, to declare what Women should be permitted to wear Gold and precious Stones in their Shoes. Among the Hebrews it is known, that Women of Fashion and Substance wore very valuable Shoes and Stockens. But we know none of their particular Ornaments.
As to the military Dress for the Feet, we see from Moses, that it was sometimes of Metal. Ferrum & æs calceamentum ejus, says he, speaking of Asher. And in the Description Deuter. xxxiii. 25. 1 Sam. xvii. 6.of the Arms of Goliah, we find he had Boots of Brass. Ocreas æreas habebat in cruribus. Homer likewise gives them to his Heroes; some had Boots of Brass, others of Copper, and those of Hercules were Tinsel. Vegetius says, that the Romans wore Iron ones. The Roman Soldiers also put many Nails under their Shoes, they were very sharp, and in great Numbers. Festus calls Isidor. origin. l. 19. cap. ult. Joseph. de bello. l. 7. c. 3.them clavata calceamenta. Josephus speaks of a Roman Soldier of such extraordinary Boldness, that he would let himself fall along the Walls of the Temple, because the Nails he had under his Shoes, which the rest of his Comrades had also, would make him slide down. In the Army of Antiochus the Great, Luxury was grown to such a pitch, that most of the Soldiers themselves had golden Nails under their Shoes. We are Valer. Maxim. Bellon. observ. l. 3. c. 44.assured that in the East, at this Day, all the People, both Rich and Poor, even the Wives of the Great Turk himself, and of his Bashas, wear Iron Plates at the Heels and Toes of their Pumps.